If the Routeburn track was the most scenic track with the most variety of ecological systems, the Kepler track was the most monotonous and steep climb with the best hut at the end and cool caves, and the Rakiura track was the easiest track, then of the overnight tramps we have done, I think the Copland track was the most interesting and technically challenging terrain, with the best birdwatching and most relaxing payoff.
So we said, that’s an awesome recommendation, let’s go for sure! And we booked the hut reservation a week or so ahead of time. Then a few days before we were set to go, Lizzy said, um, hey guys, this says that you should NOT attempt this track if there have been recent rains or if it is currently raining, as there are many stream crossings that can flood. And guess what was in the forecast for the day before our hike? Rain.
We hemmed and hawed for a while on whether we should attempt it or not, but Jordan and I decided that we wanted to do it for sure as long as the workers at the DOC office say it’s safe. Lizzy waffled a bit longer on whether she wanted to brave the stream crossings and potential rain and hiking for 7 hours just to get to the hot springs after having just done two pretty intense hikes very recently. In the end, the rain was a lot less than what was forecast, the DOC office gave us the A-OK, and we set out for Copland Valley.
The Copland Pass is the lowest valley that connects Mount Cook with the West Coast, and it originally had been hoped to make a tourist track that would allow for mule traffic to connect the two regions, but the track through the mountains proved to be too difficult, and is only now traveled by very experienced and well-equipped (ice axe, rope, crampons, etc) mountaineers. However, the first leg of the trip is situated in the valley and is not subject to the harsh alpine conditions—though it is subject to dramatic flash floods, landslides, and rockfalls if the weather gets angry.
We drove from our hostel in Franz Josef to the start of the track in light rain, but by the time we pulled in and parked, it had faded into a light mist that eventually stopped altogether as we started the tramp. We were prepared for intrepid stream crossings where we would have to take off our boots and wade, but most of the streams were very shallow despite the rain. Our first crossing at Rough Creek was the deepest, and had been beset with stones for the convenience of the trampers. I was actually hoping for more intrepid stream crossings than what we got, but most were very tame other than how slippery and mossy the rocks were that we had to hop.
Sandlfies. They are not too much of a nuisance while you are moving and walking, as they move too slowly to land on you then, but when you stop for a break, they come in hoards. Luckily for me, they think Lizzy and Jordan are more delicious than I am. Therefore, this made our breaks short and our lunches difficult.
Needless to say, it is difficult to linger on any one part of the track, so, over the boulders we went! Because there was no real path, we each picked our own way across the rocks. It was definitely challenging, but more engaging and fun than the rest of the track because you have to look ahead for yourself and pick your own trail until you come back to the marked path.
Lizzy notes: It's true that I didn't love this hike, but I DID love the hot pools. I can't imagine anything more peaceful or comfortable after a long day with aching muscles then sitting in a 90 degree natural hot pool and staring at snow-covered mountains... It was just too ideal for words. That night, when we went back in the dark, I was able to sit silently and stare at the stars for a good long while. That's a memory that I'll happily carry with me!
I had noted this early on, but the Copland Valley is more full of birdsong than many of our other tramps. This was lovely and heartbreaking all at once, because before humans came to New Zealand and introduced nasty mammals, the islands were said to be so full of birdsong that it was deafening. Well the birdsong wasn’t deafening, but we definitely saw many birds. There were many chatty and curious fantails (pīwakawaka) as usual, along with tomtits (miromiro). I also saw a cute little grey bird that was similar to a tomtit that I hadn’t ever seen before. (Turns out, it was probably a female tomtit. Why hadn't I noticed any before?) We saw and heard many wood pigeons (kererū), as they are huge and fat, and their lungs make a pumping/whistling sound as they struggle (?) to fly. A few silvereyes (tauhou) flitted around as well. The most gorgeous song accompanied us through most of the track, provided by the amazing bellbirds (korimako) -I love them! We even chanced to see one tui (tūī), Jordan’s first tui sighting! They are just gorgeous and have a song to rival the bellbird. But the bellbird can make many sounds, so I’m pretty sure they just copied the tui.
bellbird song: http://www.doc.govt.nz/Documents/conservation/native-animals/birds/bird-song/bellbird-56.mp3
tui song: http://www.doc.govt.nz/Documents/conservation/native-animals/birds/bird-song/tui-song-42.mp3
Many of the following images are borrowed with copyright info from nzbirdsonline.org.nz
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(PS: I mean, it wasn't THAT bad, but LOL do NOT do it unless you know what you're getting yourselves into! Honestly, just don't do it. Why would you do that. Do you hate yourself.)