Takaka! Glorious Takaka, located in glorious Golden Bay, land of sun and huge beaches. We left Punakaiki relatively early on Wednesday with the intention of heading straight to Takaka with a stop for lunch in Murchison. It was about a 5 hour drive according to Google, but in New Zealand that really means about 7 hours because the roads are so twisty that it's just impossible to go the speed limit. It was a bit of a harrowing drive because, during our two days in Punakaiki and Barrytown, Hestia had begun making a horrifying grumble/groan when we braked. We also had to go over the Takaka Hill to get into town-- a huge climb and an intense downhill, complete with 120 degree turns basically constantly.
The next morning Kara and I dragged ourselves out of bed very early and went on our mission to get Hestia looked at. The first place we tried couldn't see us for a week, and our stomaches definitely sank-- but luck against luck, a mechanic behind the BP gas station in town took pity on us and said we definitely could not go back over the hill on faulty brakes. He agreed to look at our car the next day, so Kara and I headed back to the hostel to pick up Jordan and explore the town a bit.
Takaka is basically composed of one really long street that is filled with great art stores, a museum, clothes and shoes, cafes, bars, and also ICE CREAM. We had a great time going in and out of the shops, and I scoped out the ice cream place to return to later. Our plan for after lunch was to take some of the free bikes at the hostel and go out to the nearby Labyrinth Rocks. Our new hostel friend Naomi joined us. However, hostels being what they are, we ended up having a really hilarious time trying to find bikes that worked well enough to ride. There were about 8 bikes for 4 people, and we each picked one that would fit us and started checking them over. We found a myriad of problems: brakes that weren't connected, flat tires, tires off-alignment that rubbed against the bike, etc, etc, etc. Every time we picked out a new one it was a near disaster. Eventually we cobbled together enough that would work, except for Jordan, who had no luck at all. Just as we were about to give up and drive there, another hostel guest rode up in on the bike he'd been using and said that it worked well enough except the brakes weren't great. Jordan decided to take the risk, and off we went! Unfortunately we didn't consider the weight difference between that guy (twiggy) and Jordan (not twiggy), and so the brakes pretty much didn't work at all for Jordan. So it was a nerve-wracking ride.
But worth it-- the Labyrinth Rocks were VERY cool. It was about a 15 minute ride away from Takaka to get there. We entered into what really was a labyrinth of limestone rock, which is being maintained (paths, etc) by a local group. To our excitement and joy, we also saw tons of strange toys- mostly children's figurines- hidden throughout the labyrinth. I couldn't stop thinking about much the area would have captured my imagination as a kid- the kids who get to go there are super lucky! But we had a great time too. :)
ANYWAY, the next morning, though dead and dying from no sleep, Kara and I took the car in to the extremely nice people at the mechanics and they confirmed that we would need new brake pads. Fortunately, we got it to them before there was any damage to our rotors. The car would be ours again in the afternoon, after new brake pads arrived form Motueka, and in the meantime we went back to the hostel to load up on coffee.
Naomi found us there and told us that she'd be visiting Te Waikoropupu Springs and we were welcome to come, so we jumped on the chance! The Pupu Springs are (ironically?) one of the most clear springs in the entire world. Visibility has been measured at 63 meters (about 180 feet). Apparently the only clearer water is found in Antarctica. Also, they are the largest cold springs in the Southern hemisphere! They were blindingly gorgeous. The springs are a very sacred site to the Maori, and we could certainly see why. It was difficult to get it on camera, but we tried!
HE MADE ME THIS ICE CREAM CONE. (IT'S BLUEBERRY.)
In the morning, we woke up and headed straight for the Rawhiti Cave Track. Have I mentioned before that “wh” is pronounced “f” in Maori? So Rawhiti is pronounced Rafiti. ANYWAY, we headed out to the track, and started a lovely walk to the cave. We saw a BLOOD TREE. (I licked it.)
The back of the cave is collapsed, and the mouth of the cave is large enough (and facing the right direction) so that sunlight can reach almost the entire cave.
Basically this is the best cave, and I didn't want to leave, even though there is only a small platform to stand on for you to look into the cave so you don't damage any of the formations.
(Farewell Spit is also a bit of a tragic area-- because of the degree of curve, whales are unable to detect it with their sonar. Every few years, a pod will beach itself... :()
We had had a very busy day! We got back to the hostel and I relaxed in the lounge (near the fire stove) for some great conversation, and then collapsed into bed, and mercifully no one snored.
Takaka and Golden Bay: Verdict, HEAVEN.